It’s always lovely to work with a new fabric, especially if it challenges you a little. My latest make is using one of Minerva’s new base cloths a gorgeous Exclusive Charmeuse Silky Satin in a design called Python Prayer in the flame colourway. I love how warm and rich the colours are in this fabric.
This Charmeuse is light weight, buttery soft and has the most incredible drape, almost like water running through your hands. It feels incredibly silky and has a very soft and subtle satin shimmer finish making it perfect for an evening blouse. It would also make the most special pair of PJ’s or a very glamorous dressing gown.
I chose Butterick B6899 for this fabric because I loved the knot detail and thought that option C with the flutter sleeves would show off the gorgeous drape well. I opted for Bodice B and after reading other peoples reviews, I didn’t bother with the zip up the back and it worked really well without it. The blouse easily pulls on over my head which is great for me as back zips are challenging to do up and can be uncomfortable when seated. The back is fitted so I kept the back seam but you could alter the pattern to eliminate the back seam if you prefer.
I overlocked the edges of the fabric before washing to ensure that it didn’t fray too much in the wash. It was difficult to tissue fit this pattern as obviously the tissue paper doesn’t behave in the same way as such a drapey fabric so I just had to do my best to imagine how it would look when finished. I think the ideal would have been to make a toile but I didn’t have any similar fabric to use so I just went with my gut.
Hubby then cut out the pieces of the pattern in a single layer with a rotary cutter as the fabric is slippy and cutting as usual on the fold wouldn’t be advisable as the underneath layer could move.
I used a brand new Microtex 60/80 needle with a walking foot and finished my seams on the overlocker. The hems on the sleeves and the bottom were sewn as narrow hems. I must admit the sleeve hems were quite challenging as the fabric really needed coaxing into place. I used lots of clips (I felt pins or tacking would likely leave holes in the fabric).
My top tips for narrow hemming this type of fabric are:
Use a walking foot
Make sure you have sewn a guide stitch around the base of your hem.
Press thoroughly to help the fabric to lie flat under the press foot.
Use lots of clips
Hold your fabric at the front and rear of your foot and gently guide it round, don’t be tempted to pull.
Have your speed turned down to low
If a hem does start to unfold under your pressure foot, keep your needle down, raise your pressure foot and use a pair of tweezers to coax it back into place, then drop your foot back down.
I’m really happy with how this blouse has turned out, the fit is great and very comfortable and I love how it makes me feel wearing it, definitely more glamorous than usual, perfect for a special meal out.
Wheelchair considerations
1). You can leave out the back zip to make it easier to dress.
2). You could alter the pattern to eliminate the back seam if you wanted.
3). The neckline is perfect for the wheelchair being viewed from above.
4). I was happy with the length of the top but you could easily shorten it to sit level with your lap.
5). The sleeves are a good length to not get caught in anything.
(Image Description: there are six images taken from different angles showing Yvonne sat in her wheelchair in her garden. She is wearing black trousers and a red silky top with Knott front. The fabric has leaves in white gold and green with stylised pythons intertwined)
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